One of the best things about Rome is that there is such an absolute abundance of history, that even living here for years and years, you can still discover new things.

One evening after dinner in Trastevere (Le Mani in Pasta….I recommend it!), I was getting a rare ride home from a friend with wheels.  As we drove past the giant white pyramid at Piramide, and then up the tree-lined Aventino, my friend made a sudden decision to make a turn in a different direction.  At this point I had been living in Rome for 2 or 3 years, so I was surpised to see us going up a hill I had never seen before.  I protested that he had made a wrong turn, but he laughed and insisted that there was something I needed to see.

We arrived at the top of the hill, driving by some pretty massive properties with fancy gates along the way.  At the top there was a simple Piazza, which looked like a parking lot more or less.  Only there was just one car parked, and it was an Italian military jeep.  Near the jeep were not surprisingly two Italian military guards, automatic weapons and all, standing near a large door.  “Come on”, my friend said, as he got out of the car and headed towards the strangely important and guarded door.  I was hesitant, watching the men with huge guns, wondering why we were heading in their direction.  But we went straight for the door, and the armed men didn’t seem to mind.

At the impressive door,I was told that behind it was techincally the smallest country in the world, property and a sovereign place, of the famous Cavalieri di Malta (the Knights of Malta).  Behind the door was their garden, a small church, and a small building…and that’s it!  Fascinating, yes, but why take me to their closed door?  “Look in the keyhole”, he told me.  Peep through the keyhole to a sovereign country….while armed guards watch?  As they say: When it Rome…right?  And what I saw was something quite surprising, and absolutely spectacular.  Through the hole, you can see the Dome of St. Peter’s Basilica, perfectly framed by the ivy of the garden on the other side of the door.

Years later,I would have the priveledge of being one of the few outsiders given permission to go inside and explore the pristine gardens and modest church (thanks to a fantastic guide and friend named John Penate). A once in a lifetime experience no doubt.  But I’ll never forget that first peek through it’s door, and the moment I realized that Rome is a city filled with secrets and hidden gems…you just need to know where to go and to never stop looking for them.